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November 30, 2009

Interview with A.P.C. Designer Jean Touitou



A brand known synonymously with clean, timeless aesthetics in addition to initial forays into the world of raw denim on a streetwear level, French brand A.P.C. and its founder Jean Touitou have had a great impact on the fashion landscape before us. Catching up with the Tunisian-born designer, as he opened his latest flagship store in Hong Kong, you get a great understanding of the outspoken leader of A.P.C., who maintains a set of strong values and opinions. The chance to speak with him incited some strong comments regarding Touitou’s opinions on fashion in America, the reluctance of Japanese brands to expand internationally and his own vested interest in the upbringing of youth through a solid education. With such a strong grasp and involvement in many different disciplines, we’re excited to see what’s on the horizon beyond fashion for both A.P.C. and Jean Touitou.

Interview with Jean Touitou

Having had a few different retail locations across Hong Kong, what does it mean to open a new shop in what is arguably Hong Kong’s premier shopping district, Central?

Hong Kong is a very difficult city because it doesn’t have streets, no streets that really make sense. It’s mostly about going from one building to another air-conditioned building. We cannot have the same experience in Hong Kong as we do in other parts of the world and there definitely isn’t the same street experience. That’s why I think Central has some of those necessary street characteristics, from that point of view.

Will there be more subsequent A.P.C. store openings in Hong Kong?

No, I think that’s it. I think enough is enough. I don’t want to over-develop it. I don’t even like flagship stores, I think there are way too many huge stores in Hong Kong. Life is not only about stores, we should stop making so many stores.

Have there been any particular cities or regions in the world beyond the normal associations such as Tokyo and Paris which have caught your interest on a fashion level?

Yes, probably Northern European cities, Copenhagen.

Scandinavian countries…?

Yes, Scandinavian countries. Even small Scandinavian cities have a strong sense of inventive fashion.

Do you think it comes down to their culture?

Yes, that is a good point. Maybe it comes down to their capacity of accepting and they have a good educational system. From the very beginning they are educated in nice buildings. There is something about harmony that make them look well. There isn’t such a great reliance on brands when it comes to fashion.

Do you have any particular favorite Scandinavian designers?

Oh no, I don’t know any, I don’t know if there’s any. I just think they have a good overall aesthetic in Scandinavian culture.

In terms of collaborations, what sort of elements do you look for before engaging in a project, for example, Nike. [Touitou was wearing A.P.C. x Nike All Courts]

You know, I don’t like collaborations, because I think there are way too many of them right now. Frankly I hate them, cause it’s a purely a way for a business man to do business when business is dead. Business is dead so the boss tells the creative director, “find an idea to collaborate on”. Sometimes they do not make sense at all. Those are my thoughts on collaborations. For us, sometimes when we do collaborations with specific companies, we do it cause we specifically don’t have the know-how to make the particular product. We could do a sneaker, but it would be over-priced. If somebody would want to buy a new pair of sneakers every 3 months, it would not be very clever. For July, there will be some items with Supreme. The reason is, I really feel like I share a similar sense of morales and politics with them. I would shop at their Lafayette location even before I knew them. I found they had a really radical way of doing things.

I think they’ve done a really good job of keeping true to their roots…

Yes, we’re going to do a pair of jeans that say “Fuck Em’” on the back patch and they should release in July.

Do you have anything special planned for that release?

No… and that’s what I like about them (Supreme). I said, should we do a party in Tokyo? They said “Uh, not another fashion party with people who just want free drinks”. That’s what I like about them, they’re really frank and true.

What do you usually do you do in your leisure time?

I don’t make a difference between leisure and work. I try to do both of them together because really I find ideas when I’m just sailing on the boat or sometimes when I’m just totally drifting off somewhere else. I try to read as much as I can. It’s the only thing that keeps your head awake.

How does A.P.C. tackle the problem of sizing being a well-known international brand now?

Trying to have clothes ranging from Asia to America and Europe, it’s hard to have a huge range of sizes. That’s the most technically difficult aspect.

What kind of music do you listen to?

I listen a lot to Metronomy and French singers of the late 70s. Singers that I didn’t listen to at the time, probably because I was your age and at that time it was mostly The Ramones and The New York Dolls. I wasn’t ignorant to their music but it was impossible to pick up that there was good French pop at the time. They looked ridiculous and something I couldn’t register. I’m really amazed by Metronomy though and I’ve worked a little bit with them.

Having opened a school last year, what was your reasoning behind it? I know you mentioned the importance of an education when referring to Scandinavian countries.

Yes, Scandinavia’s education system has inspired me. In France, when you go with children to a restaurant, they look at you like a dirty dog. When you’re in Scandinavia, they’re much more welcome and well behaved. To tell you the truth, I wanted to do something really deep and important. I’m not a religious person at all but to me touching education, was like people touching god. It was something holy and very important. I’m happy I did A.P.C., but I’m also happy I did a school, it is something I want to give it to my children. Everybody wants to buy art and keep it on their wall. I thought I’ll take so much money to buy a Warhol, Basquiat, but if you think of the money you invest into art, you could put it into a school, I felt it was a better investm

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